Tuesday, 17 April 2012
Tuesday, April 10. Out early with S to buy milk. V cold. Breakfasted on slice of colomba (Easter delicacy like panettone baked in shape of dove) and rock-hard remnant of hot x bun, there being no bread. L and I caught bus to town and found our way to Uffizi. Located an ATM, but it was out of order (ATMs not so common - the one at the station in Milan was well-hidden, but police helped me track it down). L changed some money at a bureau de change, which looked like a rip-off to me. Endless queue outside duomo - S later told us it was for going up to the top of the dome, and he expected the queue for the cathedral itself would be much less. At Uffizi, unexpected collection of classical sculptures, which kept us busy for quite a while. The major part of the art collection is in rooms off a u-shaped glassed-in veranda on the top floor, of which the ceiling is richly decorated, partly with allegorical subjects, partly with reference to arts and sciences. Just under the ceiling and all around, small portraits of notable people mostly from C17 and 18. Loved a picture of Electress Sophie looking like Charles II in drag. Larger portraits here and there of which Eleanora of Toledo with small son was outstanding. Wondered what they glassed the veranda in with before glass readily available - X later told us they used panels of oiled linen. Worked our way round pictures on the far side from the entrance after dispute as to method of viewing resolved in my favour. Endless stuff. Stopped for coffee about 2, then plowed on. Got as far as Botticelli when S rang, wanting to rendezvous. Almost impossible to find way out. Pushed along with T across river to Piazza Santo Spirito where ate sandwiches and drank beer in the square - popular with derelicts and dogs. Into basilica for look at Michelangelo crucifixion, passing endless artworks unregarded on the way. Somehow, mannerist sculpture seems to invite you to take the work of art as an object in a way that earlier and less practised works do not. Then home - T as usual a great hit on bus with an elderly nun who poked out her tongue and 2 twentyish girls who laughed and made faces at him. L referred to them as the nun's nieces, which S said was nonsense.
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